White Pine:
The smell of fresh-cut pine is all around at this time of year – at stands selling Christmas trees, and deep in the winter woods. Novelist David Rhodes has been thinking about the smell of white pine and the way scent and memory combine.
David Rhodes is the author of the award-winning novel, Driftless. He lives on 35 acres of land in the Driftless region.
November 2011
15 posts
Alongside the turkey, mashed potatoes, and cranberries is another Midwestern holiday tradition: jello salad. If you’re lucky (or unlucky) enough to be served on today, you might like to know something about their origin. Commentator Eric Dregni shares the Scandinavian tradition of these quivering salads.
Eric Dregni is an assistant professor of English at Concordia University in St. Paul. He’s the author of several books including Vikings in the Attic: In Search of Nordic America.
Ingredients:![]()
- 5 pounds assorted greens (collard, kale, mustard, and turnip greens, in any combination), tough stems discarded
- 2 medium onions , chopped
- 1/4 cup vegetable oil
- 2 jalapenos , seeded and minced, optional
- 1 (1 1/2-pound) smoked turkey wing
- Seasoned salt and freshly ground black pepper
Directions:
Tear the greens into large pieces. Wash the greens well in a sink full of cold water. Lift the greens out of the sink and transfer to a large bowl, leaving the grit to fall to the bottom of the sink. (Be sure you get all the grit out of the greens. If necessary, wash again.) Do not drain the greens in a colander.
In a large pot, combine the onions, two cups water, oil, and jalapenos, if using. Bring to a boil over high heat. Gradually stir in the greens, allowing each batch to wilt before adding more greens. Bury the turkey wing in the greens. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Cover and reduce the heat to medium-low. Cook, stirring occasionally, just until the greens are tender, about 30 minutes. Do not overcook the greens or they will lose their color and fresh flavor. Remove the turkey wing. Discard the skin and bones, chop the turkey meat, and return to the pot. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the greens to a serving dish. Serve hot.
Serves 4-6
Nutritional Information:
302 calories, 14.6 grams of fat, 1.2 grams saturated fat, 54 mg cholesterol, 135 mg sodium, 24.2 grams carbohydrates, 24.3 grams protein, 8.8 grams fiber
Greens:
For many Wisconsin families, a Thanksgiving meal just wouldn’t be complete without a big ol’ pot of greens. And for Madison resident John Givens, who cooks for his family and friends, serving greens without cornbread is almost a sin. Today, he invites us into his kitchen to share a few of his secrets.
Madison resident John Givens cooking a pot of Thanksgiving greens. Cynthia Woodland brought us his story along with this recipe for greens.
Cranberries:
It’s hard to imagine Thanksgiving without cranberries. Unless you’re like Nodji vanWychen — born and raised on a cranberry marsh. Nodji’s a 3rd generation cranberry grower. She and her family still own and run the marsh where she grew up, in Warrens, Wisconsin.
Nodji vanWychen and her husband own the Wetherby Cranberry Company in Warrens, Wisconsin. She’s the 3rd generation to work the marsh. WPR’s Maureen McCollum brought us her story. You’ll find pictures and a cranberry recipe here.
Ingredients:
16 oz. (4 cups) fresh cranberries
1 cup sugar
1 cup cranberry wine
½ tsp cinnamon
1 tsp ginger
1 fresh orange, peeled and cut into bite-sized pieces
1 TBS grated orange zest
½ cup chopped walnuts
Directions:
Combine all ingredients except walnuts in a saucepan and stir well. Cook over medium heat until cranberries pop open, about 10 minutes. Remove from heat, skim the foam off the surface of the mixture and discard. Stir in the chopped walnuts.
Cool the mixture to room temperature. Cover and refrigerate. Cranberry relish will keep for 3 months in the refrigerator, longer if frozen.
Trout Caviar:
The word “caviar” conjures images of opulent luxury and the crashing waves of the Caspian Sea — not the lakes and streams of Wisconsin. Yet in the fall, Wisconsin waters yield the jewel-like egg sacs of freshwater caviar. Commentator Brett Laidlaw shares the story of his favorite local delicacy.
Brett Laidlaw is the author of Trout Caviar: Recipes from a Northern Forager as well as the Trout Caviar blog. He and his wife life divide their time between St. Paul and an off-the-grid cabin on 20 acres in northern Dunn County.
From Trout Caviar: Recipes from a Northern Forager (Minnesota Historical Society Press) by Brett Laidlaw
Ingredients:
¼ cup trout roe
¼ tsp salt
Directions:
Rinse eggs and drain in a sieve. Put the roe in a small bowl and gently mix in salt. Cover with plastic wrap and let sit for 3 to 4 hours; the salt penetrates quickly. The caviar will keep for 3 to 4 days in the fridge.
Serve with dark bread or blini, good butter, sour cream or crème fraiche.

Ingredients:
3 medium beets (about 1 1/2 pounds)
1 tablespoon olive oil
Salt
Freshly ground black pepper
Directions:
Heat the oven to 400°F and arrange a shelf in the middle. Rinse the beets and trim off any leafy tops. Wrap completely in aluminum foil and place in the oven. Roast until tender and easily pierced with a knife, about 1 to 1 1/2 hours. Remove from the oven and let cool.
When the beets are cool enough to handle, slip skins from the beets with a paring knife or your fingers.
Slice the beets, drizzle with olive oil, and season with salt and freshly ground black pepper.
Beets:
If you think politics are polarizing, try beets. A fall and winter food staple, beets are a major Wisconsin crop yet they don’t inspire a lot of love. UW-Madison plant scientist Irwin Goldman is the nation’s leading expert on beets and today, he’ll try to rehabilitate the image of this humble root.
Irwin Goldman is a professor of horticulture at the UW-Madison where he grows, breeds, studies, and even eats beets as part of his research. Check out his recipe for roasted beets. Experience more of Goldman’s beet love here.
Adapted from Apple: A Global History
Ingredients
3/4 cup all-purpose flour, leveled
1/4 cup packed brown sugar
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/2 cup plus 2 tablespoons granulated sugar
8 tablespoons (1 stick) unsalted butter, cold, cut into small cubes
1 cup old-fashioned rolled oats (not instant)
3 pounds apples, such as Rambo, Empire, or Gala, peeled, cored, and cut into 1/2-inch chunks
2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1/8 teaspoon nutmeg
Directions
- Preheat oven to 375 degrees.
Topping: In a large bowl, mix together flour, brown sugar, salt, and 2 tablespoons granulated sugar. Cut butter into flour, using a pastry blender or two knives, until mixture is the texture of coarse meal. Add oats, and use your hands to toss and squeeze mixture until large, moist clumps form. Place in refrigerator to chill while you prepare apples.
- Filling: In another large bowl, toss apples with lemon juice, cinnamon, nutmeg, and remaining 1/2 cup granulated sugar. Transfer to an 11 x 17-inch baking dish or other shallow 2-quart baking dish.
- Assemble: Remove topping from refrigerator and sprinkle on apple mixture. Place baking dish on a rimmed baking sheet, and bake until golden and bubbling, 55 to 65 minutes. Let cool 10 minutes before serving.
Serves 8.
Rambo Apples:
It’s apple season once again and although you can find the basic varieties in any supermarket, once upon a time, Wisconsin was home to hundreds of different varieties of apples. Many of them are now forgotten. Today, commentator Erika Janik introduces one of her favorites — the Rambo.
Erika Janik is a Madison-based writer. Her new book is called “Apple: A Global History.” She’s also the editor of Wisconsin Life.
Check out this recipe for Rambo Apple Crisp!
Ingredients:
2 cups dehydrated corn
¾ lb cooked salt pork or venison
2 cups cooked beans (red, kidney, or pinto)
Directions:
Cover corn in enough water to cover and soak overnight. Pour corn in stockpot and add enough water to cover corn by 1 inch. Bring to a boil. Cover and simmer for 1 hour.
Add the salt pork or venison and beans. Simmer 1-2 more hours. Check frequently to make sure water covers ingredients throughout cooking process.
Serves: 12
Oneida Husking Bee:
For the Oneida Nation, corn is not just food, it’s culture. The Oneida grew white corn for centuries in New York and replanted it, along with their culture, in Wisconsin in the 1820s. And every fall, the Oneida harvest their traditional white flint corn for sustenance and to remember their tradition.
Vickie Cornelius and Kyle Wisneski work with the Oneida Community Integrated Food Systems project. WPR’s Scott Clark brought us their voices.
Recipe for Hull Corn Soup